An Overview of Cuts and Shapes


Gemstones: An Overview of Cuts and Shapes.

DSO Archive publishes a research on some of the cuts and shapes that are most commonly used in jewelry settings today, their original designers, their main features and attributes.

Round Brilliant.
58-facets cut.
Created by Marcel Tolkowsky in 1919. Classic and traditional, it is ideal for diamonds and suited for all coloured gemstones for its brilliance.

Princess.
58-facets cut (variable).
Developed in the 1960’s. Modern and contemporary it accentuates the fire and brilliance of the stone.​

Oval.
56-facets cut (variable).
Created by Lazare Kaplan in the 1960’s. As a variation of the Round Brilliant it retains all its attributes and it is of comparable brilliance.

Marquise.
58-facets cut (variable).
Commissioned by Louis XIV to resemble the smile of the Marquise de Pompadour. ​It has one of the largest crown surface of any shape.

Emerald.
50 to 58-facets cut.
Developed by Basil Watermeyer in 1971. It has a large, open table that produces a mirror effect with an interplay of light and dark tones.

Baguette.
14-facets cut (variable).
Reintroduced by Cartier in 1912. It has a high level of luster with less brilliance, it is commonly used as accents to complete designs.

Asscher.
58-facets cut (74 facets in the Royal Asscher).
Created by Asscher brothers in 1902. Similar to a square Emerald shape it has an open table with higher luster and lower brilliance.​

Cushion.
58-facets cut.
Developed in the 19th century it is an antique cut. The large open facets give a distinctive look through the table with lower brilliance than modern shapes.

Radiant.
70-facets cut.
Created by Henry Grossbard in 1977. It combines the elegance of an Emerald shape with a frosted-like brilliance and high light refraction.​

Trilliant.
44-facets cut (31 facets in the Trillion).
Created by Asscher brothers. It has many variations, it has high brilliance and it is often used as accent to complete designs.​

Pear.
58-facets cut (variable).
Developed in the 16th century it is an antique cut. Fiery and with high brilliance it combines the attributes of a Round Brilliant and a Marquise. 

Heart.
59-facets cut (variable).
Developed in the 16th century it is an antique cut. With high brilliance it is a variation of the Pear shape and it has similar refraction of light.